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Injury Prevention

Le dans «health news» par Leslee Sison

Most common climbing injuries: I don't have actual stats on this, but based on my experience as a climber and a coach, I'd put finger injuries, elbow injuries, shoulder injuries, and possibly sprained ankles at the top of the list. The sprained ankles most often occur while bouldering, and are typically the result of landing on an uneven surface. The only I can say about that is that it's very important to pay attention to your landing, particularly buy modafinil your crashpad placement, and make sure your spotter (if you have one) is competent. Note that sometimes it's better not to have a spotter all - especially if you have a nice open flat landing surface beneath you, and you're attempting a move that will cause you to swing out and possibly land on your spotter. I've seen people sprain ankles because their spotter actually got in the way!

As for the elbow and shoulder injuries, these are commonly a result of overuse. Climbers often develop nagging symptoms that are similar to tennis-elbow and usually caused by a form of tendonitis. Finger injuries may also be related to overuse, but often occur quickly, in the middle of a move when your tendons and pulleys are maxed out. All of these types of injuries are less likely to occur when climbers adhere to the following guidelines with regard to health and training.

  1. Always get a good warm-up during each climbing or training session. Mine usually consists of 30-ish minutes of medium-intensity cardio or calisthenics, plus at least 30 more minutes of easy to moderate climbing. That's before I even start trying to climb anything hard. Of course that usually makes for pretty long sessions, and I've made a real effort to arrange my weekly schedule so that I can have several hours at a time to devote to climbing. When I have only an hour or so to climb, I usually forego the cardio, start instead with 10 or 15 minutes of calisthenics and Gripstik (keep reading for more info on that), then climb at a warm-up intensity for the rest of my session. If I only have an hour, I never try to send a project. I realize that part of this is because I've been climbing like this for a long time and have the stamina to sustain really long workouts ...